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Le notizie dall’Italia.
Martorana fruit legend
by Assunta, queen of the Italian Table
The charm and mystery of Palermo are reflected in its fruits and the city. One of these is the colourful Martorana fruit. Martoranas are typical desserts prepared on November 2, the holiday commemorating deceased relatives or on the day of the deceased’s commemoration.
As the day of the dead draws near each year, the pastry shops in Palermo burst with life, showcasing the vivid hues of the Martorana fruits. These fruits, a symbol of Sicilian tradition, are not confined to this season. They grace the pastry shops all year round, a testament to their deep-rooted cultural significance and the Sicilians’ profound connection with their heritage.
The Martorana fruit, bearing the name of the noblewoman Eloisa Martorana, is steeped in history. Eloisa Martorana, the visionary behind the third Benedictine monastery in Palermo in 1194, left an indelible mark. The monastery, now the Department of Architecture of the University, was nationalised in 1876. The nearby church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, also known as Martorana, is a testament to her influence. The church’s garden, adorned with fragrant roses, oranges, lemons, and cedar trees, is hailed as the city’s most beautiful, enveloping Palermo in a gentle floral aroma.
According to legend, the Martorana fruit is born in this unique garden environment. The fame of the magnificent garden of the Benedictines, the monastery’s founders, reached the King. The King also wants to see this unique garden with his own eyes. And towards the end of October, news of the King’s arrival reaches the monastery. The news was good, but its timing was terrible. In autumn, the trees and rose branches in the monastery were flowerless and fruitless. While the nuns are thinking in panic about what to do, one of them, the cook, comes up with a stroke of genius: He invents a soft and easy-to-use dessert made of almonds and honey to present to the King. The dessert had to dry in the open air for a few days, and it was ready to serve immediately. The original idea was to create small fruits with dough, painted so beautifully that they looked like natural citrus fruits to be hung between the branches of trees. The long-awaited moment of the monarch’s visit has arrived. When the King entered the monastery, after a pause for thought that seemed to last an eternity for the nuns, the King exclaimed: “I must congratulate you, Mother. Your garden is the only one in the city with trees full of ripe fruits. You will almost want to taste them.”
The King pulled a large orange to peel it, realising it was not a fruit. The cutie was stunned by the deception and let out a big laugh. “These almond and honey fruits were made in your honour, Your Majesty,” the superior admitted. The King then promised to return in the spring to admire the blooming roses of the Benedictine nuns, and before he left, a small bouquet full of those delicious little berries was prepared.
Ancient monastery recipe
Contents
1 kg sweet almonds 800 g sugar 600 ml water four bitter almonds
Method
Blanch the almonds in boiling water, peel and chop OK y. Separately, melt the sugar with water in a large pn. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. When the sugar starts to “flow”, turn off the heat, pour in the finely chopped almonds all at once, and stir quickly to mix everything. Pour into the cake board and let cool. Shape the fruit you want with your hands or chalk moulds: tangerine, lemon, chestnut, pear… Decorate with food colouring and polish with Arabic gum.
