Vita Gazette

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Secrets of Cities: Dante’s Route in Forlì

Forlì is located in the heart of Romagna, along the Via Emilia, in a strategic position easily accessible by car or train. Close to both the Adriatic Sea and the foothills of the Apennines, the city offers diverse landscapes and a relaxed atmosphere.

The great Florentine poet Dante Alighieri was sentenced to be burned at the stake and to the confiscation of all his family’s property by rulings issued on January 27 and March 10, 1302.

Dante was not only a poet but also an active politician in the Republic of Florence. At the end of the 13th century, Florentine politics were marked by a fierce struggle between two main factions: the Guelphs, supporters of the Papacy, and the Ghibellines, supporters of the Holy Roman Empire. Over time, the Guelphs themselves split into White and Black factions.

Dante sided with the White Guelphs, who opposed direct papal interference in Florence’s internal affairs. The Black Guelphs, on the other hand, strongly supported papal authority. In 1301, with the political manoeuvres of Pope Boniface VIII and the arrival of Charles of Valois, brother of the King of France, the balance of power shifted, and the Black Guelphs seized control.

The new regime initiated a sweeping purge against White Guelph leaders. Dante, who was in Rome on a diplomatic mission at the time, was tried in absentia and accused of corruption, abuse of office, and anti-papal activity. In 1302, he was first sentenced to a fine and exile, and later to death by burning should he return to Florence. This ruling was less a legal judgment than an act of political revenge. It represented not only punishment but also political elimination. Thus began Dante’s exile, and from that moment on, he never saw his native city again.

In fact, the process of exile had already begun. In 1301, power dynamics in Florence shifted dramatically. Cante dei Gabrielli, representing the Black Guelphs, became podestà and initiated systematic repression against the White Guelphs. Many were killed, and others were exiled from the city along the Arno River. Dante was forced to flee—first to Arezzo, then to San Benedetto in Alpe, and finally to Forlì. In 1303, an attempt by the exiles to retake Florence failed. During this time, Dante held the rank of captain. Together with Scarpetta Ordelaffi, lord of Forlì and a Ghibelline leader, he attempted to return, but the Florentine governor Fulcieri da Calboli prevailed at the Battle of Castel Puliciano. A second attempt in 1304 also failed, permanently closing the path back home.

Exile: A Tragedy or an Opportunity?

Forced exile was not only a tragedy for Dante; it also provided him with the opportunity to closely observe the political geography of central Italy, especially Romagna. He incorporated these observations into his immortal work, the Divine Comedy, one of the cornerstones of world literature. The work features not only Florentine but also Romagnol figures. Dante’s poetry deepened through the historical and human experiences he gained in exile.

The “Paths of Dante” between Florence and Ravenna allow visitors today to rediscover his journey. In this context, Forlì is truly a “Dante city.” Here, he was hosted by Scarpetta Ordelaffi, who even offered him a position as secretary. Between 1302 and 1313, Dante visited Forlì several times.

Of course, the buildings we see today are not those of seven centuries ago. Time has transformed and erased much, yet the remaining traces are enough to connect with history.

 

First stop: Porta Schiavonia

The journey following Dante’s footsteps begins at Porta Schiavonia, the gateway for travellers arriving from Florence via the Acquacheta valley (today Montone) and the Muraglione Pass. A nearby plaque features verses from the Inferno in which Dante describes the Montone River.

Second stop: Palazzo Paulucci di Calboli d’Aste

On the façade of this palace are verses from the Purgatorio, mentioning Ranieri de Calboli. Dante reflects on the moral decline of Romagna, expressing nostalgia for past virtues.

Third stop: Palazzo Albicini

Dante stayed here as a guest of the Ordelaffi family. A plaque also commemorates another great Italian poet, Giosuè Carducci, symbolically linking two different eras. Nearby, the Civic Museum of Palazzo Romagnoli displays a medallion portrait of Dante.

Fourth stop: Piazza Saffi and San Mercuriale

In the heart of the city, near the Abbey of San Mercuriale, a plaque recalls the 1282 event known as the “Bloody Heap,” when Guido da Montefeltro defeated French troops sent by the Pope. Dante references this episode in the Inferno.

The Aurelio Saffi Library also houses a rich Dante collection, including a 15th-century illuminated parchment.

Dante’s paths of exile reflect not only the tragic fate of a poet but also the political conflicts, moral struggles, and cultural dynamism of medieval Italy. The traces in Forlì remind us that great literature often arises from suffering, yet gives lasting meaning to the places where it is created.

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