News from Italy
Taormina, one of the pearls of Italy:
“From fairy tale to reality…”
by Ayfer Selamoğlu
Italy is like an elegant woman of incomparable beauty. Rows of cities, towns and islands surround the peninsula like pearls in a rare necklace. The priceless pearls, made of terracotta, apricot, beige and pink colours, give unforgettable moments to everyone who touches them…
Hidden in Sicily since ancient Roman and Ancient Greek times, Taormina is also one of Italy’s pearls, “representing beauty, resistance, rebirth and strength.” Taormina, named after the Tauro Mountains, is a lively medieval town overlooking the Naxos Harbor over the cliffs east of Sicily… This charming town, connected to Messina, has Etna, a still active volcanic mountain on one side and the Ionian Sea embracing the Mediterranean on the other.
When we arrive in Taormina, following the coast of Sicily stretching out to the Mediterranean like a brilliantly embroidered lace, we realize that we have found a rare pearl hidden in a Sicilian oyster. Messina, one of the two ancient gates of the city, welcomes visitors to the ancient town with all its cuteness.
On the right, the small but charming church of Santa Caterina welcomes us. In front of it, one of the small cars, the symbol of Italy’s narrow and cosy streets, is obviously waiting for the newlyweds. Colourfully dressed stylish women and men in black suits with white flowers on their lapels surrounded the car. I climb the stairs and look through the door. All rows are decorated with flowers. I also have a bouquet of flowers saying “Good luck”. A friendly, beautiful woman at the door is handing me a full-fledged cone with all her cuteness. Inside is a tiny bottle of wine and rice. I ask the meaning of it: It was prepared with the hope that pleasant moments would be fruitful…
We want to be one of the partners of this wish. My dear life partner Tarık and I are sitting in one of the cute cafes across the church. A street artist accompanies this dream setting with a colourful waistcoat, black pants, white shirt and red striped straw hat. Invite everyone to the wedding with Italian songs that he sings accompanied by his accordion. Finally, the newlywed couple appears at the church door. Champagne is bursting under the airborne rice grains, confetti and balloons. We are attending this wedding with a glass. After getting the bride and groom in their car and waving after them, we continue walking into the town.
We reach 9 Nisan Square by following the street lined with colourful windows, balconies decorated with Moro heads and various plants, restaurants, cafes and shops.
We first admired from the terrace the magnificent panorama that embraces Etna, the Bay of Naxos and the ruins of the ancient theatre of Taormina. Immediately to our left is the church of Sant’Agostino, which occupies one side of the square. Today, this church serves as the municipal library. When we enter, an extraordinary, ancient library welcomes us with rare books and documents. In the centre of the square stands the fabulous church of San Giuseppe. The mountains on which it rests add beauty to its legendary beauty. One of the magnificent examples of Sicilian Baroque is the beauty of the double staircase in front of the church, decorated with flowers, attracting attention. On the left side of the church is the historic clock tower and the ancient door that opens onto Corso Umberto. Built in the 12th century, the clock was destroyed several times but was always rebuilt. Restaurants and bars are lined up on the left and right sides of the church. The sea’s fresh scent fills our breath with colourful, vital energy.
Abbiamo prima ammirato dalla terrazza il magnifico panorama che abbraccia l’Etna, la baia di Naxos e le rovine dell’antico teatro di Taormina. Subito alla nostra sinistra si trova la chiesa di Sant’Agostino, che occupa un lato della piazza. Questa chiesa oggi funge da biblioteca comunale. Quando entriamo, ci accoglie una biblioteca molto speciale, antica con libri e documenti rari. Al centro della piazza sorge la favolosa chiesa di San Giuseppe. Le montagne su cui si appoggia aggiungono bellezza alla sua leggendaria bellezza. Uno dei magnifici esempi di barocco siciliano, attira l’attenzione la bellezza della doppia scalinata davanti alla chiesa, decorata con fiori. Sul lato sinistro della chiesa si trova la storica torre dell’orologio e l’antica porta che si apre su Corso Umberto. Costruito nel XII secolo, l’orologio fu più volte distrutto ma fu sempre ricostruito. Ristoranti e bar sono allineati sui lati destro e sinistro della chiesa. Il fresco profumo del mare non solo apre il nostro respiro, ma lo riempie anche di colorata energia vitale.
The name of Piazza 9 Aprile was already Piazza Sant’Agostino. But on April 9, 1860, during a function in the cathedral of Taormina, the rumour spread that Garibaldi had landed in Marsala to begin the liberation of Sicily from the Bourbons. Garibaldi will disembark in Marsala a month later, on May 9. In other words, the news story was unfounded. Still, the inhabitants of Taormina gave this historic square as a gift to dedicate the most elegant and beautiful part of the village to Garibaldi …
We keep walking. We pass through the door under the antique clock to Corso Umberto Street. We walk among colourful little buildings, balconies with flower sculptures, relief walls, shops and art galleries. This time, we are in another square. Taormina Cathedral is on the left, and in the middle is a fountain pool with a horse head and a mermaid tail rising. The stairs of the ancient pool are full of people taking a rest break. We join those who rest by drinking water from the fountain. Another bridal carriage decorated with flowers awaits in front of the cathedral. There is no one in front of the door. The ceremony has just begun. After a while, the couple comes out among the confetti, flowers, and rice grains, gets into the wedding car according to tradition, and starts wandering the streets of Taormina. Winds of peace, joy and romance are blowing in the air.
Then we continue walking to the Catania gate. The landscape does not change. Side-by-side buildings, shops, cafes, restaurants, art galleries, ceramic workshops, local design and jewellery products, indispensable Italian brands and music accompany us. After arriving at the other entrance gate of the town, we return to the 9th of April square. Now is the time to relax and enjoy Taormina’s elegant lounge. We are sitting at Mocambo Bar, one of our favourite places. In front of us is the symbol of Taormina, I Suonatori Music Group. So dear Giuseppe and dear Gianni, who is no longer alive. As always, their most beautiful melodies feed the town’s soul and visitors they symbolize with music…
As the sun sets on our first discovery day, we are talking about who has come from this legendary town and who has passed. Since the 19th century, Taormina has become a popular tourist destination all over Europe. Among those who visit this charming town is Oscar Wilde. Richard Burton has travelled the world but proposed his marriage to Elizabeth Taylor in this lovely town. It has been one of the frequent haunts of Monica Vitti and Sophia Loren. Author D.H. Lawrence wrote his articles here. Friedrich Nietzsche, Richard Wagner and others. German landscape painter Otto Geleng (1843-1939) was one of the first artists to capture the beauty of Sicily. He married an Italian woman and settled in Taormina. Bertrand Russell, Roald Dahl, Henry Faulkner and Tennessee Williams were among the names that stopped by here again. Icelandic writer Halldór Laxness, winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1955, wrote most of his first novel, “The Great Weaver from Kashmir”, in Taormina, which he later praised in his book of autobiographical essays. Goethe described Taormina, fascinating with its history and nature, as the “key to Italy.” After seeing it on the first day, we agreed with Goethe.
Terraced villas, bars and restaurants offer a magnificent view over the cliffs surrounded by giant cacti… Moro heads, sometimes sadly, proudly placed among the colourful plants and flowers hanging from the windows and balconies. Geraniums, bougainvillaea, and vines hang down the narrow, cobblestone streets, and they climb the stairs with the intoxication of love, compassion, and attention. Ceramics and paintings are overflowing in front of the art galleries. Warm and sincere people filling the narrow cobblestone streets and squares adorned with flowers… Most importantly, it is a paradise that has preserved the title of a charming, historical town that paints a livable picture from all sides for years. In other words, the Garden of Eden…
Taormina’s beauties, symbols and mysterious places cannot fit in one article. We will continue to talk about the ancient theatre, located against the Ionian Sea and Etna Volcano, along with other historical and cultural places and their secrets…
But now it’s time to set the sun with my love…
