News from Italy
The Godfather : Bar Vitelli
by Ayfer Selamoglu
I am in the fairytale town of Taormina, which is postcard-beautiful in Sicily. I want to explore the mountain village, which is among the places where the movie “The Godfather” was shot, which is at the top of my list of “classic films and immortal directors”. For this, I must go to Savoca (Sicilian: Sàvuca), a medieval town in Mesina. I am participating in the “Il Padrino-The Godfather-Father” day tour from Taormina.
While driving on the open, orange-coloured tour bus, the passengers are accompanied by scenes from the movie The Father, shot in Savaco, on a small screen placed in the vehicle. Our cute and friendly driver stops the scene as the scenes change and gives information about the places. Narrow and steep roads, the legendary village built up like an eagle’s nest, the meeting of Apollonia and Michael, the dialogues in Bar Vitelli, the meeting with Apollonia’s father, the wedding in the church and similar scenes. I watched the movie maybe 20 times last night. I knew every single scene and every dialogue by heart. But I still watched it with pleasure as if it was the first time…
As soon as I enter the borders of Savoca, which preserves its untouched natural beauty and history, I feel like I’m on the set of the movie Baba. We went up the winding mountain roads to the mountain village on the hill. As soon as I got off the bus, like everyone else, I headed to Bar Vitelli, where one of the legendary parts of the movie took place. People from all over the world came here to see where one of the unforgettable parts of Coppola’s masterpiece occurred.
Finally, I am in front of the Bar Vitelli’s garden. The melodies of Nino Rota, who composed the music for the movie Baba, reached my place. As soon as I walk into the bar, I realize that everything in the film is the same, from the sign to the chairs in the garden to the path next to it to the flowerpots in front of it. I went inside before sitting at a table. The walls are filled with squares from the meeting of Michael and Apollonia to their marriage. Lots of wedding photos. And photos from the scenes of the trilogy… It was like a museum from the movie The Godfather. I looked at the images one by one without haste. I touched the things Michael, Apollonia, and Signor Vitelli sat on and felt. Bar Vitelli had turned into a magical time travel machine.
As soon as I sat down at my table, the statue of Francis Ford Coppola, dominating the whole, located on Piazza Fossia in front of the bar, caught my attention. Now that our director had arrived, the movie could begin. Reality and fantasy mix. And while sipping my second glass, I mix with the players.
We are on the mountain slopes of town with our mothers, aunts, cousins and friends. We sing songs and collect rare plants. After a fun day, we return to our homes with wicker baskets filled with plants and flowers. The most beautiful girl in town, my best friend Apollonia, is with us…
When we come to the centre of the town by wandering through narrow and steep roads, we come across a handsome foreigner and two armed men. I hear one of the gunmen say, “Oh my god, I’m in love.” But Apollonia was already lost in the deep gaze of the handsome youth. They take a long look. The three men don’t say anything to us, nor do they do anything. We keep walking. Just as he was turning, one of the gunmen shouted, “Michael, forget it! I hear you say, “Sicilian women are more dangerous than guns; be careful”.
Then Apollonia and I go to her father’s bar. Right after they came, the young men we’d just met. They sit at the empty table in the corner. After ordering wine, they describe the girl they met to Uncle Vitelli and ask if he knows her. The weather suddenly changes when she says, “This beautiful girl looked more Greek than Italian,” describing her latest purple dress and the headband in her hair. Uncle Vitelli, chatting happily with them, got angry when he heard the colour of the girl’s dress and the tiara in her hair. Saying, “No, there are no such girls in our city,” he got up from the table in a rage and went inside. There were shouts from inside the bar. As the voices grew louder, one of the gunmen spoke in panic: “She’s angry; let’s get out of here immediately:” But the young handsome man instructed, in a confident and determined tone, “Call his father here.” Uncle Vitello was now in front of the young man. The young man first apologized to Uncle Vitelli. He said he wanted to meet Apollonia with great respect and kindness and asked permission to do so. He introduced himself: “I am an American hiding in Sicily. My name is Michael Corleone. Many people would pay a lot of money for this information. But then your daughter will be without a father. Isn’t it better for your daughter to have a husband? I want to meet your daughter. With your permission and under the supervision of your family.” Vitelli is convinced and invites Michael to his house on Sunday. Michael asks for his daughter’s name, uncle Vitelli is calm now: he says “Apollonia”…
Afterwards, the fairy tale continues with the love of the village like a fairy tale. Apollonia and Michael come together under the supervision of their families. Tables are set, and gifts are given. They are in front, and family members and we villagers go on their romantic engagement trips behind them.
After relaxing at the bar, follow the narrow cobbled road to the 14th-century St. I’m going up to Nicolo Church. This time, I am humming the soundtrack of the movie Baba. We have a wedding. Going back and forth between exploring the village and admiring the scenery, I get lost in a dreamlike time accompanied by movie scenes. Colourful balconies, windows and colourful flowers overflowing from the balconies, the geography that preserves its authenticity, the plain architecture dominated by stone, the wisterias all over the place, and the small and cute cars suitable for the region make my dreams come true.
The ceremony had begun when I went to church. Apollonia was in a white wedding dress, Michael was in a black wedding dress, and she was on her knees. He wore a white flower on his lapel, symboling innocence and purity. Their little bridesmaids were with them. After declaring them both husband and wife, the priest blessed them. Then I followed the wedding procession. In the front, the town band is in white, Michael’s bodyguards, the bride and groom, the family, and us, the townspeople, marching to the accompaniment of music in the back. The women walked from their ribboned baskets, throwing rice and candy at the parade. We went down the narrow and winding streets to the wedding house. The newly married couple made treats for their guests with their hands. And the ceremony ended with a happy dance.
They were very happy… But Michael’s ingrained past would not leave them. The Alfa Romeo 6C Nera, which we saw the day they met at their home, would change their lives once again…
After the wedding, I passed through the narrow cobbled roads to Bar Vitelli. I know that directors Coppola and Al Pacino love Granite di Limonis. To accompany Italian music, I also started to sip Granite di Limoni for them.
I asked for a plate of typical local sweets to accompany it. I wanted to enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean view to the fullest. Afterwards, I ordered a coffee with almond dessert. I would drink these for Apollonia, Michael and their great love…